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Editor's note: If you'd rather watch than read, see Ari's The Shop Manual video on oil changes, and if you're looking for more tips or how to handle problems that crop up, see his oil change life hacks article.
The whole process only takes about 20 to 30 minutes, and doesn’t require much in terms of tools and supplies. If you’ve assembled your own TSM tool kit，那麼您已經擁有所需的一切。如果沒有的話，您將需要取出排水盤，一些氮氣手套，抹布，用於卸下排水塞的扳手和扭矩扳手來重新安裝它的扳手，用於機油濾清器的扳手，加上您可能需要卸下自行車的腹部鍋的任何工具，如有必要。當然，您還需要一個新的過濾器，手冊中列出的適當油以及用於排水螺栓的替換密封墊圈。 加入油，過濾器和新鮮的密封墊圈，您可以獲得DIY換油所需的一切。 Spenser Robert攝影。 如果您的自行車最近被騎了，請給它一些時間冷卻，以免使用燙粉油。如果您的自行車配備了中央支架，或者您的後架或前輪蓋子可能有助於訪問自行車的腹部，但不需要架子。我認為有必要的是一些地面覆蓋，以防止不可避免的滴落弄髒車庫或車道。我通常只是從回收垃圾箱中抓一些紙板，然後將其放在自行車下。 設備累積，騎自行車。現在，用抹布從排水塞和機油濾清器周圍擦去污垢，然後用合適的組合扳手或套筒從套件上裂開排水塞。克服了螺栓上的最初張力後，您應該可以手動擰下它，並且您會知道它何時即將獲得免費，因為您會看到石油開始滲入線程。 油不僅可以潤滑電機中的所有運動部件，還有助於使這些組件保持涼爽和清潔。 Harley-Davidson照片。 在這一點上，請確保您的排水盤在自行車下方 - 並確保鍋的通風孔開放，以使油在排水時不會起泡和吐痰 - 並嘗試以您不會在油中塗上的方式將手和前臂放置。即便如此，我的手中總是有一塊抹布，準備從前前臂擦去油。 跟踪密封墊圈 - 通常在螺栓上脫落，但有時會粘在發動機上。如果您正在使用側支架上的自行車，並且排水塞不在發動機的下坡側，請立即站立自行車，以幫助清空所有舊油。 隨著油的排水，請注意其顏色和狀況，因為它可以指示發動機的問題。它會很黑，但不應該聞起來燃燒，如果您看到任何金屬片混合在一起，這表明所有引擎的活動部件都不會出色。同樣，如果油是乳白色或蒼白的，通常意味著冷卻液通常由於頭部墊片洩漏而變成油中。 隨著舊的油，是時候進入機油過濾器了。 像許多KTMS和本田雙運動競技一樣，有些自行車具有內部墨盒過濾器，而大多數街道自行車都使用汽車風格的旋轉濾鏡過濾器。如果您有墨盒，它們很容易交換，但是請確保您不會向後放新的過濾器。實際上，在刪除舊過濾器之前，請繼續拍攝舊過濾器的照片，以便您有一個參考。 要刪除旋轉過濾器，請使用通用綁帶扳手，過濾器鉗或過濾器插座。 取出過濾器後，將油倒出，然後將其放在排水盤上。現在，使用乾淨的抹布擦拭過濾器交配表面，並確保舊過濾器中的O形圈不會粘在發動機上。很少見，但是可能會發生，並且會干擾新的過濾器的安裝。
If your bike has been ridden recently, give it some time to cool off so you’re not working with scalding-hot oil. If your bike is equipped with a center stand or if you have a rear stand or front-wheel chock that will likely help with accessing the bike’s belly, but a stand isn’t necessary. What I would deem necessary is some ground covering to prevent the inevitable drips from staining your garage or driveway. I usually just snag some cardboard from the recycle bin and lay it under the bike.
Equipment accrued, bike in position. Now use a rag to wipe the grime off the drain plug and from around the oil filter, then crack the drain plug loose with an appropriate combination wrench or socket from your kit. Once you’ve overcome the initial tension on the bolt, you should be able to unscrew it by hand, and you’ll know when it’s about to come free because you’ll see oil starting to seep past the threads.
At this point make sure your drain pan is under the bike – and make sure the pan’s vent is open so the oil doesn’t bubble and spit as it’s draining – and try to position your hand and forearm in a way that you won't get doused in oil. Even so, I always have a rag in my free hand, ready to wipe the oil off my forearm.
Keep track of the sealing washer – it usually comes off on the bolt, but sometimes it sticks to the engine. If you’re working with the bike on the side stand and the drain plug isn’t on the downhill side of the engine, stand the bike upright for a moment to help empty all the old oil.
As the oil is draining, take note of its color and condition, since it can indicate issues with your engine. It’ll be dark, but it shouldn’t smell burnt, and if you see any metal flakes mixed in, that’s a sign that things aren’t going great with all your engine’s moving parts. Similarly, if the oil is milky or pale, that usually means coolant is getting mixed into the oil, often due to a leaking head gasket.
With the old oil out, it’s time to move on to the oil filter.
Some bikes, like many KTMs and Honda dual-sports, have internal cartridge filters, while most street bikes use an automotive-style spin-on filter. If you have a cartridge, they’re easy to swap out, but make sure you don’t put the new filter in backwards. In fact, go ahead and take a picture of the old filter before you remove it, just so you have a reference.
To remove a spin-on filter, use a universal strap wrench, filter pliers, or a filter socket. With the filter removed, pour the oil out of it and set it to empty out on your drain pan. Now use a clean rag to wipe down the filter mating surface, and make sure the O-ring from the old filter didn’t stick to the engine. It’s rare, but it can happen and will interfere with the installation of the new filter.
如果您的新濾清器上的O形圈未經預放量，請在其上放一點油，以使其平穩地旋轉並正確密封。用手打開過濾器，通常，一旦感覺到密封觸摸，就應該將其旋轉到一個四分之三轉彎。在過濾器上繪製參考線以幫助您測量旋轉可能會有所幫助。如果您的手冊指定了安裝扭矩，則需要使用過濾器插座和扭矩扳手來擰緊它。 有時，過濾器位於排氣口上方，這意味著當您將過濾器旋轉時，您的管道會變得油膩。您始終可以讓它發生並在完成後擦拭所有東西，但是事先將鋁箔折疊在排氣口上可以使它們保持清潔。 Ari Henning攝影。 現在，您的自行車的排水塞可能使用銅，鋁或纖維密封墊圈，或者可能使用O形圈。總是建議替換洗衣機或O形圈，但我不會撒謊，如果不咀嚼，我只會在鋁製或銅洗衣機上翻轉。我妻子汽車上的密封洗衣機現在已經旋轉了近100,000英里，沒有問題。無論您做什麼，都要確保洗衣機到位，並在將工具放在上面之前手動啟動插頭，以確保您不會越過螺紋；這很容易做到，因為螺栓經常處於尷尬的位置。 典型的擰緊插頭上的扭矩為14至16英尺磅，但不要說出我的話 - 檢查您的該死的手冊，請使用扭矩扳手。新機械師 愛 過度擰緊事物並損壞發動機中的螺紋（這就是發生的情況，因為鋼螺栓上的螺紋比鋁製曲軸箱中的螺紋強，這是將簡單的機油變成小災難的最簡單方法。如果您確實在自行車上剝離任何線程，請放心，我們有一個 視頻 這將帶您修理剝離的線，包括排水塞上的線。 下一個最簡單的換油方法？忘記將石油放回自行車中。不要笑，它會發生！您的手冊將列出要添加的油的類型和數量，並且您的手冊還將說明是否應使用側支架上的自行車或垂直固定的自行車進行檢查。無論如何，一旦您設置了石油水平，請啟動自行車，然後讓它運行一分鐘，然後將其關閉，重新檢查油位 - 由於新濾鏡會吸收一些體積，因此通常會有所下降 - 並檢查過濾器和排水塞的洩漏。 如果需要的話，請在油上加油，如果一切看起來不錯，您就完成了。感覺很好，不是嗎？如果您想感覺良好，請致電您的當地經銷店，並詢問他們要花多少時間，以及讓他們在30分鐘內處理您剛剛解決的問題需要多長時間。我不是在敲經銷商和商店，但是沒有理由您不應該解決自己的換油。現在你知道瞭如何。 圖片庫 訂閱 普通胎面 訂閱 圖片庫 相關故事 摩托車機油改變生活駭客 阿里·亨寧（Ari Henning） 播客：哪個更好，DIY或機械師？ 安迪·格雷斯（Andy Greaser） 為什麼事情就是這樣：摩托車油 萊米 購物裝備 運動專業機油濾清器帶扳手 $ 17.99 矩陣概念油排油鍋 從$ 26.95起 Motul 3000 4T機油-1升 $ 13.69 K＆N油過濾器 從$ 10.99起 分享 51 加入討論 訂閱 普通胎面 訂閱 繼續購物 騎手更喜歡會員資格 成員 該產品的特權！ RPM產品節省 RPM現金返還 RPM歡迎現金 總價值 將RPM添加到購物車 騎手更喜歡會員資格 加入RPM和 節省 在這個產品上！ 將RPM添加到購物車 $ 39.99 /yr。 花更少的錢。騎更多。 5％RPM現金返還* 超過70個品牌折扣10％ 加入時$ 15的RPM現金 免費的2天送貨和免費退貨* 還有更多！ 今天成為會員！ 了解更多 通過購買和註冊騎手優先會員資格，您同意 計劃條款和條件
Now, your bike’s drain plug likely uses a copper, aluminum, or fiber sealing washer, or perhaps an O-ring. It’s always recommended to replace the washer or O-ring, but I’m not gonna lie, I’ll just flip over an aluminum or copper washer if it’s not chewed up. The sealing washer on my wife’s car has been getting rotated for nearly 100,000 miles now with no issues. Whatever you do, make sure the washer is in place and get the plug started by hand before putting a tool on it to ensure you don’t get the threads crossed; it’s easy to do since the bolt is often in an awkward spot.
Typical tightening torque on a drain plug is 14 to 16 foot-pounds, but don’t take my word for it — check your damn manual, and please use a torque wrench. New mechanics love to over tighten things, and damaging the threads in your engine — which is what will happen since the threads on the steel bolt are stronger than the threads in the aluminum crankcase — is the easiest way to turn a simple oil change into a minor disaster. If you do strip any threads on your bike, don’t worry, we’ve got a video that walks you through repairing stripped threads, including the ones on your drain plug.
The next easiest way to screw up an oil change? Forgetting to put oil back in the bike. Don’t laugh, it happens! Your manual will list the type and quantity of oil to add, and your manual will also say whether the oil level should be checked with the bike on the side stand or held vertical. In any case, once you’ve got the oil level set, start the bike and let it run for a minute, then shut it off, recheck the oil level – which will usually drop a bit since the new filter soaks up some volume – and check the filter and drain plug for leaks.
Top off the oil if needed, and if everything looks good, you’re done. Feels great, doesn’t it? If you want to feel extra good, call your local dealership and ask them how much it would cost and how long it would take to have them handle what you just tackled in 30 minutes. I’m not knocking dealerships and shops, but there’s no reason why you shouldn’t be tackling your own oil changes. And now you know how.
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